Villagers around Cameroon's Lobeke National Park speak of a time when there were so many animals they literally found their supper on their doorsteps. Now they have to go deep into the forests.
After the war and genocide in 1994, I returned to Rwanda as Deputy Director of the Rwandan wildlife service, Office Rwandais du Tourisme et des Parcs Nationaux (ORTPN). My mission was to rehabilitate the national park system.